Let me tell you something that’s been bubbling in my mind for weeks: the luxury fashion world is currently playing a high-stakes game of chess, and every move feels like a calculated gamble. When Kering announced Romain Spitzer’s appointment as Bottega Veneta’s new CEO, it wasn’t just another executive shuffle—it was a signal. A signal that the rules of the game are changing, and that survival in this industry now hinges on reinvention. Personally, I think this move says more about the desperation of legacy brands than it does about Spitzer’s credentials. But let’s unpack this.
What makes this particularly fascinating is how Spitzer’s background doesn’t align with the typical profile of a luxury brand leader. He’s not a designer, not a heritage figure, and certainly not someone who grew up in the shadow of a storied house. Instead, he’s a fragrance executive who spent decades navigating the volatile world of scents and skincare. If you take a step back and think about it, this is a curious choice. Why would Kering, a conglomerate that owns Gucci, Saint Laurent, and Balenciaga, turn to a man whose expertise lies in ephemeral products like perfume? It raises a deeper question: Is the future of luxury about craftsmanship, or is it about emotional resonance? I’d argue it’s both—but Spitzer’s appointment suggests Kering is leaning heavily on the latter.
Here’s what I find especially interesting: Spitzer’s career trajectory has been a masterclass in brand alchemy. He started at Guerlain, a house that’s survived centuries by marrying tradition with innovation. Then he moved through Yves Saint Laurent and Dior, two brands that have had to constantly rebrand themselves to stay relevant. Now, he’s stepping into Bottega Veneta, a brand that’s built its identity around leather goods and a sort of rebellious minimalism. What this really suggests is that Kering sees Spitzer as a bridge between old-world craftsmanship and new-world consumer psychology. But is that bridge sturdy enough? I’m not sure. The fragrance industry thrives on novelty and impulse, while luxury fashion demands patience and legacy. These are fundamentally different beasts.
Let’s talk about the elephant in the room: Bottega Veneta has been in a state of flux since Bartolomeo Rongone left to join Moncler. The brand’s creative director, Louise Trotter, has been pushing for expansion into non-leather goods—a move that’s both risky and necessary. Spitzer’s role now is to translate that vision into execution. But here’s the thing: He’s never managed a brand that relies on physical products. His entire career has been about creating desire through scent, which is a fleeting experience. How does that translate to leather bags or shoes that need to last decades? It’s a puzzle. What many people don’t realize is that Kering’s strategy here is less about Spitzer’s experience and more about his ability to sell a narrative. And in the luxury world, narratives are everything.
A detail that I find especially interesting is the timing of this appointment. Kering’s CEO, Luca de Meo, has been pushing for a turnaround that includes doubling revenue from non-leather categories. This isn’t just about diversification—it’s about survival. The luxury market is saturated, and younger consumers are less interested in traditional symbols of wealth. They want experiences, exclusivity, and a sense of belonging. Spitzer’s background in fragrance might actually be an asset here. After all, perfume is one of the most personal forms of self-expression. If he can infuse Bottega Veneta’s products with that same sense of individuality, maybe the brand can tap into a new demographic. But I’m skeptical. Fragrance is a quick fix; fashion is a long-term commitment. The two don’t always mix.
What this appointment really highlights is the growing disconnect between legacy brands and the modern consumer. Bottega Veneta’s current strategy feels like a desperate attempt to keep up with the pace of change. Spitzer’s arrival might be the spark they need—but it could also be a distraction. In my opinion, the real challenge isn’t finding the right leader; it’s figuring out what the brand stands for in a world where ‘luxury’ is no longer a clear concept. Is it about quality? Identity? Status? Or is it something entirely different? I don’t have the answers, but I do know this: The next few years will be a test of whether Kering can evolve without losing what made Bottega Veneta special in the first place.
As I see it, this isn’t just about Spitzer’s résumé. It’s about a larger trend in the luxury industry: the increasing reliance on executives who can sell a story rather than build one. And while that might work for a while, it’s a fragile foundation. The question isn’t whether Spitzer can lead Bottega Veneta—it’s whether the brand can afford to keep chasing trends instead of defining them.
